Everest from Tibet 2013
Bo on the summit of Changtse during the acclimatization to Everest
Sorely I had to abandon my attempt to scale Mt. Everest this spring.
Everything was progressing according to the plan with minor delays but nothing serious. I even scaled the Everest North Peak, Changtse 7543 meter, during the acclimatization. I was in really god shape and did not feal the altitude.
I was going to attempt Everest without sherpas to help carrying, erecting tents, making my food etc. and without supplementary oxygen.
When I started my summit attempt I climbed to the North Col at 7000 meter and spend the night there. Continued to camp 2 carrying all my own stuff the next day. Here I should have had a much needed rest.
But that was all messed up when two from my group on the north side came down from the summit totally exhausted. I had to melt ice for water for them and see to that they had something to eat. The other tents in camp was wrecked by a storm. Therefore, the tree of us had to sleep in my small tent. That spoiled my summit attempt. Nothing became of my much needed sleep and rest and I was very tired the next day, where I should have continued to camp 3.
That was the end of my summit attempt and there was no time for more as the monsoon was just on our dorstep. I’ll have to come back and prove to myself that I can make it the rest of the way.
Everest from the neighbouring mountain Lhakpa Ri that I summited in 2009
I am ready for my expedition to the north side of Mt. Everest.
My sponsors have given their contribution and I have packed
- müesli bars from Wasa
- biscuits from Bisca
- freeze dried food from Reiter
- stoves from MSR
and a lot of other stuff. My luggage weighs in at 38 kg which is a bit more than allowed by Qatar Airways. But I have a special allowance of 33 kg. Just have to pay for the last 5 kg. On top of that comes my hand luggage containing my tree cameras and weighing 12 kg – just hope they don’t discover this excessive hand luggage 😉
My route is Copenhagen –> Kathmandu –> Nyalam (Tibet) –> Tingri –> Everest Basecamp –> ABC –> Camp 1 (North Col) –> Camp 2 –> Camp 3 –> Everest Summit
Hopefully I succeed during the middle of May. Follow my attempt on Opdag Verden (danish language)
Unluckily we had to cancel my first expedition as leader of a commercial expedition to an 8000 meter peak. This happened due to the fact that the Chinese wouldn’t allow us to enter Tibet because of the demonstrations by Tibetans for a free Tibet.
The expedition is leaving for smaller challenges in Nepal: Mera Peak 6476 meter and Baruntse 7129 meter.
Hope we will have luck collecting a new group for Cho Oyu next year or maybe later.
Great trip to The Karakorams this summer.
My recent expedition attempted mountains in the Gasherbrum Group. The name means “The Beautiful Mountains” an understandable name when you have seen the huge cirque of awesome mountains. Two of the group reach higher than 8000 meters and are therefore part of my project, COT14.
Gasherbrum I also called G1 or Hidden Peak from camp 1 on route to the summit
Together with Jan Marthorne and Mads Granlien I summited Gasherbrum I, or G1 as it is often called, on a wonderful day with almost no wind. We climbed the mountain in alpine style by the Japanese couloir which is almost on the left skyline and takes you to the shoulder in 7000 meter. From there you cross the icefield where the avalanche in the picture above started. After the icefield you climb what we called “the S-couloir” due to it’s shape.
At the top of that a short summitwall took us to the summit. Unfortunately we could not see from below where the highest summit was situated and I ended up on a lower summit before going some way down and climbing up the true summit. The two others were a bit behind and were warned by me. Therefore, they could luckily avoid the detour and climb directly to the summit.
I spend a total of one and a half hour on the summit, half an hour before Mads arrived, another quarter of an hour before Jan arrived and then we spend three quarters of an hour together taking video, pictures and enjoying the beautiful day.
We also had a permit for G6, the lowest summit in the group, but an unclimbed 7000+ peak. We had identified a comparatively low risk route, but after two of a french team of three died attempting another route on G6 we decided not to make an attempt. We were satisfied with the succesful climb of G1 the second 8000 meter peak for Jan and I as we summited Broad Peak in 1994. Read about that expedition here: Broad Peak succes.
Returning from our succesful expedition to Broad Peak 🙂
Bo Belvedere Christensen and Jan Mathorne on the summit of Broad Peak
It has been a marvelous time on this expedition. Challenging, stormy, exciting and then in the end with a succesful outcome. There has also sad times on the way when a guy we had just made friends with died on K2.
We made several acclimatization climbs during the expedition:
- Climbed to camp “half” – a camp that we placed between basecamp and camp 1. This was good for acclimatization and made the first climbs up the mountain less tiresome – recommended!
- Climbed to camp half and further to camp 1 to spend the night. Next day we came back down
- Climbed to camp one, next day to camp 2. Rested here next day. Next day to camp 3. This was supposed to be the top camp, but two of us continued next day to a camp 4 at app. 7400 meter. Next day the succesfull summit attempt took place.
On the walk in to the mountains we came up the Baltoro glacier, but going out we utilized the recently opened Ghondogora La – 5750 meter high pass to the valleys on the south side of the mountains. What a nice experience but also somewhat difficult especially for the porters.
Dhaulagiri in the early morning light as seen from near Pokhara
Our expedition to Dhaulagiri came out succesful according to our succescriteria:
- no person injured
- at least one person on the summit
- everybody back as good friends
It was the first Danish attempt on Dhaulagiri. Therefore, Søren Smidt was the first dane on the summit when he reached them mountain top in the beginning of june.
Jan Mathorne and I had to turn back in late May only around 300 meters from the summit due to a heavy storm that threathened to blow us of the mountain. I’ll have to come back to this beautiful mountain some day.