Everest 1996

The infamous year on Everest where 8 people died due to bad decision making by the leaders, primarily Rob Hall and Scott Fischer who both died on the mountain together with other guides and many clients. Many more were injured or suffered frostbite, some very severe.

I was together with three other danish climbers part of Mall Dufs international expedition. But I climbed primarily together with Finnish climber Veikka Gustafsson, who in 2013 became the first from the Nordic countries to complete all the fourteen 8-thousand meter peaks. The day before the tragic events we decided the weather was to unstable, and we descended to camp two to wait for better weather.

Next day we witnessed a load of climbers going for the summit in the unstable weather. And the it all went completely astray. We ended up as part of the resque teams and making a temporary hospital in camp 2.

Almost fourteen days after the accidents and all the deaths Veikka and I attempted again but were still very tired after the resque operations. We climbed to around 8400 meters without using oxygen bottles, Veikka went a little higher than me, as I was even more exhausted. I had made a solo attempt only two days before, but unfortunately was hit by high winds and didn’t make it very far.

Thus ended my first attempt on Everest. On the day we left basecamp, we eyed three South African climbers going up the summit ridge. One was very slow and as we were told, he never made it down. Veikka cut him down from the fixed ropes at the Hillary step in 1997, where Veikka made it to summit without oxygen very easily. I should have gone with him but I couldn’t due to low finances and my job 🙁

Mousetrap 1996