My first attempt on Dhaulagiri
My first attempt on Dhaulagiri took place in 1991. It was my second climb in the Himalayas, the first one being the succesful climb of Ama Dablam i 1988. But I did not succeed and have not until now made another attempt on the mountain.
Jan Mathorne and I climbed to 7800 meter on Dhaulagiri during our attempt in 1991, at that time the highest point I had ever reached. But a storm was brewing and it hit hard on the summit ridge. Loosing sensation in our hands and toes we quickly decided to withdraw, and by our camp at 7700 meter the tent seemed in danger of blowing away.
Therefore we decided to descend to our camp in 7000 meter – a snow cave actually. But when we got to the snow cave it had collapsed and we were to tired to dig out sleeping bags and mattresses – and build a new snow cave. We continued all the way down to North Col and the rest of our expedition team.
One week after another guy from the team made it to the summit using our camps and gear. But we were still to tired to make another attempt. Thereafter, with the monsoon closing in it was time to leave the mountain.
Maybe 2016 will see my second attempt on Dhaulagiri.