Broad Peak – the slightly easier neighbour of K2 – 8047 meter
Standing just opposite K2 with a glacier in between the view from Broad Peak is magnificent.
It was first scaled in 1957 by an Austrian expedition consisting of Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger, and Hermann Buhl. The two latter are the only people ever to have made two first ascents of a mountain above 8000 meter. Herman Buhl had allready climbed Nanga Parbat before Broad Peak, but he died tragically shortly after when he and Kurt Diemberger attempted the virgin peak of Chogolisa. Kurt survived and went on to be part of the first ascent team on Dhaulagiri in 1960.
My Broad Peak experience
The climbing on Broad Peak is not to difficult but on the other hand it is by no means easy. We used two months in total from leaving Denmark and back again. The trek to the mountains went up the Baltoro glacier and we went out over Ghondogora La.
The climb itself took around one month from the first acclimatization trips and until we succesfully reached the summit in August 1994.